Hungary is in the red-wine, that is, thanks in part to a change in government.
It feels a bit odd to describe a country that has been making wine since as long ago as 500 B.C. as an "emerging" region. But Hungary is just emerging as a wine producer for the modern world.
Since Hungary's Communist government toppled in 1989, two important events have occurred: Hungary's wine business basically became privatized, and the country joined the European Union this year.
Improvements in Hungarian wine didn't occur overnight. Most Hungarian wine producers agree that 1997 marked the turnaround year in quality.
It didn't hurt that two years later, 1999, proved to be a generally excellent vintage throughout Hungary. And 2003 looks as if it will be a blockbuster for Hungarian reds.
Hungary's climate and soil are ideal for fine wine-making. Its latitude is the same as that of northern France; its climate is mainly continental, with warm, sunny summers and just enough autumn rain. Major rivers, such as the Danube, run through the country, tempering the climate. Much of the soil is volcanic and well-drained.
White wine has been dominant throughout Hungary's history, and 70 percent of Hungary's wines are still white. But on a recent visit, the best wines we encountered, not including the great Tokaji Aszfi dessert wines, were red.
Kekfrankos, also known as Blaufrankisch in Austria or Lemberger in Germany, is Hungary's major red grape. Its wines are versatile, spicy and medium-bodied, resembling Rhone varieties and Gamay.
Other important varieties are Kekoporto, also known as Blauer Portugieser; Zweigelt; and the native Kadarka. Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are the main international red varieties; of the four, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, in that order, seem to offer the most promise.
Three red-wine regions are leading the way: Eger, Villany-Siklos and Szekszard. Eger is the largest and most famous. It's trying to live down its reputation for its most famous wine, Egri Bikaver, or "Bull's Blood."
During the Communist era some pretty dreadful Egri Bikaver made its way around the world. Today's is a lot better, as are some Egri Pinot Noirs.
Villany-Siklos--on the Croatian border--is the southernmost and warmest Hungarian wine region. Kekoporto is the leading red variety there, followed by Kekfrankos.
Szekszard, north of Villany-Siklos, is perhaps the most exciting red-wine region. Kekfrankos dominates and is the main variety in its Bikaver blends. Kadarka, Merlot and Cabernet Franc are also important varieties.
Tokai-Hegyalia, in North-eastern Hungary, remains the most important wine region on the strength of its incredible dessert wines.
A complete description of the world-class wines of Tokaji would require another article; suffice it to say that the botrytis-effected Tokaji wines, known as Aszu--meaning shriveled grapes--are labeled three, four, five or six Puttonyos, depending on their sweetness, with six Puttonyos being the most luscious and most expensive. All Tokaji Aszfi wines come in 500-ml bottles.
The very rare Tokaji Essencia is the most concentrated and expensive of all. But it's very rare.
The Tokai area also makes a very interesting dry white wine, usually labeled Dry Furmint. Furmint, the dominant variety for both dry and sweet Tokaji, is Hungary's finest white grape variety, making full-bodied, high-acid, viscous wines with lots of character.
E-mail the authors at WineDum@aol.com.
WINE OF THE WEEK
2002 Monarchia Regnum, Takler Estate, Szekszard
Monarchia, a recently formed wine company with branches in Budapest and the United States, has built a portfolio of wines from some of Hungary's best producers and has set up its own winery in Eger. Perhaps its best red wines are coming from the estate of Ferenc Takler in Szekszard. Takler has an imposing array of wines, led by his premium red, Regnum. The 2002, a blend of four varieties--about half Merlot, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Kekfrankos --is a luscious, spicy wine with soft tannins and is redolent of blueberries.
Wholesale price per case of 6 is $240.
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